Conservation controversy in the city's capillaries

SEOUL, Oct. 22 (Yonhap) -- Once a sleepy neighborhood of slowly disappearing
traditional Korean houses, Seoul's historic neighborhood of Bukchon is now one of
the capital's most popular spots.
Sitting between two old royal palaces, Changdeokgung and Gyeongbokgung, the
cluster of the old homes, called "hanok," has been subject to protection and
beautification programs since early this century.
On weekends, its narrow streets fill with Korean and foreign tourists enjoying
the many art galleries, restaurants and cafes, along with an atmosphere that
cannot be found in other parts of a city where the wheels of redevelopment have
been turning incessantly for the past four decades.
But to the west of Gyeongbokgung lies another area rich in hanok, where the
contorted alleyways of old Seoul remain. Dubbed "Seochon" -- meaning "western
village" and a conscious echo of "Bukchon," or "northern village" -- this
collection of neighborhoods stretches to the eastern face of Mount Inwang and the
old city walls.
In terms of history, Seochon is every bit as significant as Bukchon.
"There aren't many areas like this left in Seoul," says Camilo Choi, trading
manager of local coffee shop and roasting factory Coffee Gongbang in the area.
"Redevelopment could mean losing a part of Seoul's unique identity."



Seochon contains almost 700 hanok, a significant proportion of which remain
within the bounds of the old city walls. Many of them are tucked behind taller,
newer buildings.
In several neighborhoods, however, the narrow, winding alleyways of older Seoul
survive. Described by some as the "capillaries of the city," these passages are
too narrow to admit cars.
Bicycles, cats, pots of flowers and vegetables, children playing and the
occasional hanging laundry are instead their principal occupants. They are not
visible from the outside, and those wishing to discover their charm are best
advised to dive into as many random alleyways as possible.
The houses themselves are concealed behind red brick walls, features of hanok
that appeared in the early 20th century during the Japanese colonial period.
Their wooden double doors with ornate metal fittings occasionally open to reveal
inner courtyards.
"Wihang" is a Korean name for these alleyways, and their occupants became known
as "wihangin" in the late Joseon Dynasty period (1392-1910).
Wihangin are more commonly known as "jungin," literally "middle people," a
reference to their position in society between full-fledged literati and
commoners. They belonged to a professional middle class of interpreters, doctors,
merchants and other positions.
Seochon's rich heritage also has roots in the early modern era: The hugely
innovative local writer Yi Sang (1910-1937) once lived here, as did Lee Wan-yong,
the pro-Japanese government minister who signed the treaty that led in 1910 to
the beginning of Japan's colonization of Korea.
Several sites in Seochon -- Yi Sang's house, the site where King Sejong
(1397-1450) was born and others -- are now occupied by newer buildings and
indicated, if at all, only by small stone plaques.
News surfaces periodically of various government schemes to preserve the 600-odd
remaining hanok in the area, though the issue remains a tangled one.
The district has huge potential for restoration -- one suggestion is the
development of a historical and ecological walking route by uncovering Baegundong
Stream, a waterway that flows down from Mount Inwang and is currently paved over
for much of its length.
Not all residents, though, are in favor of preserving these atmospheric
neighborhoods. The prospect of redevelopment means probable rises in property
value, bringing profit to homeowners. Others would prefer to see the bulldozers
graze in other pastures.
There are already plenty of good places to eat, drink and nose around in Seochon.
Across the main road running north are many charming cafes and restaurants,
including Tosokchon, a large restaurant complex of linked hanok famous for its
samgyetang, a chicken stew with ginseng, jujubes, rice and chestnuts.
On a street winding through the neighborhoods, two Seochon residents, who asked
to be identified only as Thomas and Danbi, have recently opened the clothes store
and atelier New Russian Painting by converting an old video rental shop attached
to the hanok in which they live.



With a collection described by Thomas as a mixture of new designers and not your
usual type of vintage, New Russian Painting is one of a new breed of ateliers and
studios slowly appearing in Seochon.
Clothing by international designers including Anntian, Henrik Vibskov, Margarin Fingers and Roman Polzin lines the white space in an ever-changing inventory of innovative talent.
"Ultimately, we want to support young designers so that they can carry on cultivating their individual styles, which would get watered down if they joined big fashion chains," says Thomas.
The most charming parts of Seochon can be discovered by heading northward, following a random sequence of alleyways up the hillside.
At a certain point, you will find yourself turning the corner to find magnificent views of Seoul spreading out beyond the rooftops.
Another way to approach Seochon is by starting from Sajik Park, situated at the southwestern corner of the area. This is the site of Sajikdan, an altar where various highly important rites were performed by kings during the Joseon era.
"Sajik" is a term referring to the god of land and the god of grain.
Restoration of Sajikdan is now under way, and the park is a pleasant, leafy spot from which to begin a walk exploring Seochon.
Seochon has huge potential for development into a cultural district. In this city of constant flux, one thing seems certain: The area will undergo change of one nature or another.